Thursday, 5 January 2017

Bharatanatyam Costumes

The costumes of the dancer are gorgeous. It is usually of richly embroidered brocade or shimmering silk or satin. The costumes are designed for freedom of movement and to showcase the signature half-seated posture (called aria mandi or ardhamandal). There are 2 most popular styles. One is the Skirt style (Saree), which is donned in various artistic manner and the other fashionable version is the Pyjama style. The pleats of the sari are draped in a such a way that it opens out in a beautiful manner which showcases the entire zari work especially during symbolic postures like muzhu mandi, which is a full sitting pose and aria mandi which shows a half sitting pose.

The most common style of stitched costume consists of 3+ pieces for males, 4 pieces for children, and 5 pieces for females:
a pair of loose pants
a large pleated length of fabric that attaches to the inseam of the pants – this creates a beautiful fan between the dancer’s legs during any half-seated or full-seated postures
a sash that goes around the waist
a choli blouse (women and children)
a sash that covers the choli blouse (women)


The Bharatanatyam dancers wear salangai(bells) also called ghungroo around their ankles to accent the footwork and use makeup to enhance the eye and facial expressions. Women wear a veni or semi circle of real or artificial flowers round the bun or plait of the hair. In the centre of the forehead a tika or dot is impressed. 


The most typical items of jewellery are the thalaisaman (head piece), with the rakodi, worn  just above the flowers in the hair, and the Chandrasuryan (moon  and sun) on either side, as the head symbolises the firmament. The ear ornaments consist of three pieces, the maatal (chain), jhimki (hanging earring) and the thodu which fits on to the lobe. For the neck there is the adigai which consists of a choker and pendant, and a longer chain with a broad padakkam or pendant designed in red, green, and pearly stones with peacock or floral designs set in a half-moon like frame. An vanki for the upper arm, gold bangles for the wrist, an odyanam or broad ornament belt completes the ensemble. 


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